Caulking seperating at front trim radius – Carriage RV Club & Forum (2024)

I have a 2015 LS37CKSL. Early November I noticed the caulking had separated between the siding and the trim along the radius at the back of the overhang on the passenger side. I had other work that needed done at a dealer so I asked them to re-caulk along the radius. Over the next 2 months the caulking separation continued and I re-caulked twice. Last week we had the 5th wheel back in to a dealer for yet more work and I asked them to re-caulk the radius for a fourth time in just over 2 months. I also noticed that the caulking along the top of the propane compartment door is separating as well. When I hitched up to leave the dealer I noticed that the separation above the propane door opened up to nearly a 1/4 inch. I could also see that the new caulking had started to separate but not a complete separation. I suspected that the separation was occurring when the 5th wheel was hitched so I lowered the front jacks to take the load off the hitch and sure enough, the separation above the propane door and the along the trim radius closed back up. Several times while hitching-up I heard a loud “snap” sound, but couldn’t determine where it came from. I now believe it was the screws breaking. I contact Mr. Stout at Lifestyle about this issue. He stated that there are probably some broken screws on the trim and that they broke because the line workers at the factory did not predrill the holes, causing the screws to heat up and become weak and break. Really! Lifestyle is aware of the problem and it is allowed to continue! There are hundreds of these screws and I’ll have to check all of them! Sorry for the rant. Sure enough I found 5 broken screws, 3 along the radius and 2 more towards the front. I found no broken screws inside the propane door. Mr. Stout also stated that the dealer should not have used silicone caulking but a product called Geocel 2300 instead.

Do you agree that this could be causing the caulking to separate? Could the broken screws along the trim at the radius be causing the separation along the top of the propane door? Would Geocel 2300 really make a difference over silicone caulking? What is the best way to replace the broken screws?

The same thing happened on our Carriage and a lot of others as well. When the screws break the trim is able to move causing the caulking to let loose. The self drilling screws that they use are too small for the thickness of steel they are going through. Even if they were pre-drilled they aren’t the correct screws in my opinion having too large of threads.

The only way to get the broken screws out is to pull the molding off and grab hold of them with some vice grips and that doesn’t always work. I tried drilling some out with first a cobalt drill bit then going to carbide drill bit and broke both bits. I wound up drilling next to them and putting new screws. I used the TEKS screws that are fine thread self drilling and self tapping. I still had to pre-drill the ones on the front because of the thickness of the steel under there. It has held up ever since I replaced then.

The new screws don’t look as good as the stock screws but they will be there for a long long time and I will never have the problem again. I use these screws to replace any screws I might have to remove from the undercarriage as well. Far superior to the screws the Mfg”s use.

I always use Geocel when I re-caulk.

I have had several broken screws also. I am usually able to drill a small pilot hole, at a different angle than the original screw. I can then start a new screw into that hole. The old, broken thread is very hard to remove.

I’ve noticed that heat, on a hot sunny day, tends to expand the steel frame and adds additional pressure on those screws.

As was said, the manufacturers use cheap, undersized screws. For a few more dollars, we could have high quality, properly sized screws and this would never happen.

I’m curious, who is Mr. Stout?

Lillyputz

http://www.rvnews.com/apeople.cfm?Recor … 3&refid=13

retiredfields wrote:I have had several broken screws also. I am usually able to drill a small pilot hole, at a different angle than the original screw. I can then start a new screw into that hole. The old, broken thread is very hard to remove.

As was said, the manufacturers use cheap, undersized screws. For a few more dollars, we could have high quality, properly sized screws and this would never happen.

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A Carriage owner advised that he used a straight punch to push the broken screws through the metal. I bought a set of various sized punches for when time comes to replace the screws. I have also bought the replacement screws that Chip recommended. I am interested in removing the belly pan to see how Carriage secured the black and grey water tanks

Rick

BadMed wrote:Falconhunter – thanks for the tip on the screws. Where can I get Geocel 2300 and is it difficult to apply?

You can do a search here as where to get it.
http://www.geocelusa.com/where-to-buy.html
I find it very hard to apply. It sets up so fast you have very little time to work with it. I use the painter tape method and pull the tape immediately doing only a few feet at a time. I put the smallest hole that I can in the nozzle and make a small bead.
Chip

You can get it from amazon or camping world as Pro-flex

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it … hite/20442

falconhunter wrote:I used the TEKS screws that are fine thread self drilling and self tapping.

Where did you get these screws? I looked at Lowes and Home Depot and neither had exactly the same ones. They had all sorts of sizes of TEKS screws, but not the 12-24 X 1/14″. I’m guessing the 12-24 indicates fine thread? And none were “Climaseal Coating” only stainless steel. I guess I could find a suitable substitute, but since these work for you I’d like to find them.

Thanks,
Jim

Runtrails wrote:

falconhunter wrote:I used the TEKS screws that are fine thread self drilling and self tapping.

Where did you get these screws? I looked at Lowes and Home Depot and neither had exactly the same ones. They had all sorts of sizes of TEKS screws, but not the 12-24 X 1/14″. I’m guessing the 12-24 indicates fine thread? And none were “Climaseal Coating” only stainless steel. I guess I could find a suitable substitute, but since these work for you I’d like to find them.

Thanks,
Jim

I bought them at Lowe’s in Conroe Texas. I have also seen them at Menards when I was in South Dakota this summer.
Chip

Here is a google search for them. Fastenal has them but in bigger quantities.
Chip
https://www.google.com/search?sourceid= … gws_rd=ssl

Here are the ones at Lowes with the same number (21342) as on my box in the picture. If you read the review it states that the picture in incorrect.

Chip

http://www.lowes.com/pd_336876-2191-213 … RRWidgetID

Unfortunately I need to revisit this topic. The repair that was done back in April, 2014 has failed, there are several broken and stripped screws again. The repair consisted of removing the old screws and removing the trim pieces, removing broken screws, doing a little reinforcement, replace trim with #10-16 self-drilling pan-head screws and re-caulked using silicone caulking. The caulking did not take long before it started to peel off. I don’t think they prepped very well. Within a month the trim started separating from the siding again. In August I had the trim re-caulked. Today it is as bad as it was before the repair job and there are several broken and stripped screws.

Another issue I am having is that when the sun is shining directly on the door side of the 5th wheel the siding bows inward, away from the trim at the radius of the trim piece, as much as 3/8″. It appears that the siding is expanding causing the siding to bow inward. Any suggestions how to fix this?

Falconhunter – how are the #12-24 Teks screws holding up for you? Can you paint the Teks screws? Would stainless steel screws be OK to use or are they too brittle?

Bob, I had the same symptoms on mine. I replaced my screws with a Teks type screw, and it held much better, BUT…

It may not be just the screws. Look at the thread about the front cap. (I’m on mobile right now, so I can’t link.) You might have a problem similar to mine. Talk to Cary at Lifestyle. He is familiar with the issue, as he dealt with mine. It’s a warranty fix, but may require a trip to Indiana.

Cliff

BadMed

Posted:9:35 PM – Nov 25, 2015

vairman

Posted:10:09 AM – Nov 26, 2015

papacliff